Let me share my memories about the annual camp in Pahalgam. I guess I was in 7th class. To start with we had to deposit
dry rations with Ghulam Nabi, the tuck shop sahab. Then the day came when we had to depart for Pahalgam. The busses were to
leave from the school grounds. We reached Pahalgam sometime in the afternoon and started downloading our bedding, clothing,
etc.
The first thing I observed was that the campsite was on a plateau and there was a steep climb to reach it. Well there
were no options and I started dragging myself....holdall on my right shoulder, attache and “Ganj Bhane” in my
left hand. Finally on the top we were allocated tents and what a relief it was to have hot tea served by Ghulam Nabi in the
afternoon. This was our first day so we were not supposed to be trekking, etc. that day. In the next couple of days we went
trekking to Aru, Fraslan, Baisaran etc. After a tiring trek, the reward was the afternoon tea and later on supper and my favorite
would be mutton curry with rice cooked by Ghulam Nabi.
Then it would be gossip, etc. before we would hit the bed (che chaya pata Soda han che anmich beer). In the later days
some of us mustered the strength to play cards with some "Phutwoot" under candle light (true to Kashmiri culture). We were
caught red handed and the card deck and the Phutwoot was confiscated and we were told to remain standing outside the tent
through the night as a punishment. By 1 a.m I was freezing. I guess around 3 a.m the camp master took pity at us and allowed
us to get into our tents with the warning "Kole shikas ladaw…… beye gindve zaar". True to “Ham nahi badlegey
or sudregey”…. we continued next evening with a new set of cards and the same old candle.....
The
one difficult thing about camping was personal hygiene. I think I would only take one or two baths in 7 days. Well the reason
was that we had to go to Lidder and people who have been to Pahalgam know how cold the water is especially at 7 am! In fact
the water would feel no different from extremely hot water and I guess that is where the term “Teri Seyt Dazun”
(burning in cold) comes from. Also Lidder was a dangerous river with strong flow and massive boulders in it. My elder brother
on one of the camping trips had slipped and fallen into the water. Luckily he was a good swimmer and was able to reach a boulder
till rescue came. I know after that he would not take Lidder for granted.
On one of the mornings Master Rajinder, whom we knew to posses a colorful personality, observed some.... how should I
put it...some nice looking Indian tourists taking a stroll. So he framed a new slogan..... "Kale Kale; Dil Wale" (since he
had a dark complexion) and asked us to shout at the top of our lungs. Apparently the tourists got our message loud and clear.
On the 2nd day we were supposed to go on a high trek which was a small valley on the other side of Chandanwari. Half
of this valley was covered by a stream fed from a glacier. This was a grueling 6+ hours trek. We reached the spot at around
2pm and had our lunch. We reached our tents at 6pm and were told to retire because next morning we would be crossing a ridge
and head towards Chandanwari and then all the way to Pahalgam. So after supper we took a short stroll looking for crystals
under the mountain peak and finally retired to our tents.
At around 8 pm we started hearing thunder. Within 30 minutes it started raining like crazy ... probably a cloud burst
which is very common in higher reaches around Lidderwat. In another 30 minutes our beddings were floating in water….
The more observant ones shouted “Khudhaya aab ha” !! The stream in the valley had swollen and flooded the valley.
The teachers came to the tents and asked us to leave everything and form into a group outside. Man oh man....was I miserable...tired.....
Totally drenched..... Cold....shivering... It was already dark and with the torrents of rain the visibility was at most 2-3
meters.
Somehow the teachers had found some Gujjars and they guided us into the sheds where they keep their animals in summer.
There was hardly any space to sit... forget sleeping, but it was a welcome change from being swept in the flood in the valley
below. Next morning true to the Biscoe spirit we acted as if nothing had happened and after morning chai and boiled eggs started
towards Chandanwari. It was a beautiful day and as the day warmed, out clothes started drying. While crossing the ridge, we
sighted a majestic bird which seemed like a big eagle with massive wing span to us. Mr. Nasrullah Javaid declared it as a
Condor... The Chandanwari side was very beautiful with more veratation.
At around 2pm we stopped by the river to have lunch. After lunch some boys started Kashmiri mousiki. In fact they were
able to get a "Not" (big earthen vessel) from a local gujjar and like true fankars started singing and playing the Not. I
can never forget that scene. Willows....water gushing by......Kashmiri chakri.... Well all good things come to an end and
we started marching towards Fraslan at around 4 pm. On the way, we had some amazing “Lassi” or “Gurus”
from Gujjars. The best thirst quencher I had.
Back at Pahalgam we straight away hit the bunks till supper. Next night was campfire................
